Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
